Chile

10 day trip to the Magallanes region of Chile over Christmas and New Years 2024. 

Travel Days

Thankfully the atmosphere wasn’t too hazy and the weather cooperated for most of our flights to be able to see some of the landscapes I have only seen via google maps. Tracking what route the plane would take and where the sun would be at the given time of our flight, Alex and I picked our seats accordingly 6 months ago. Only picking the “free” seats and often trying to not be near the engines if we can help it. Nevertheless, there’s always the row right before the emergency exit we found ourselves on the way back to the US. A word to the wise, never and I say NEVER, choose those seats. The seats do not recline and it’s right before the wing with a small window of what’s below. Either the window is next to your headrest or the seat in front of you. There’s still plenty of entertainment however when you sit behind a 5 year old.

Days 1 & 2

Right off the bus I yelled “JESUS CHRIST” as the wind blew me off balance for the first of many more times. The couple next to us retrieving their bag under the bus got a kick out of my outburst. Before putting on my ~40lb pack, I quickly retied my shoes and secured anything loose that could be lost in the brush. 

A short walk to the dock where a boat took us to the trailhead. Once at our destination, a quick lunch of snacks and hallulla bread and we were off. Moving toward Gray Glacier we faced a headwind that frankly sucked. However, it kept us cool as we often went into valleys that felt more like the Midwest plains during early summer. Recent fires have devastated the landscape, but opened up the landscape for a grassland. A haven away from the elements filled with flowers, trees on the banks of a creek, birds singing, and mosquitoes too small to notice biting our hands. Seeing the first Iceberg in our lives started the inclination that everything we were looking at was at best a simulation. About halfway on the trail we saw Gray Glacier as if it was right around the corner but in fact another day’s hike away. 

We set up camp in the woods and in the morning set off to get a better look at the glacier. Standing on top of an overlook we had to take cover under a rock as the winds ripped down the mountains and flowed down the hell-scape of the glacier. To our left was an off and on again rainbow as low hanging clouds couldn’t decide if they wanted to explode or not. 

Heading back to the trailhead/campground for night two, we cut the hike by about an hour as the wind pushed us back from where we came. With ample time to relax we enjoyed a sunset at 11:00pm. 

Day 3 (Christmas Day)

Leaving in the morning we had a lovely downhill hike for half of the day. Thankfully, I found a walking stick as my knees started to say “What in the hell are you doing”. Dropping our packs at an outpost we moved uphill with only water, snacks, 2 jackets and my camera in a drawstring bag. Releasing ~35 lbs of weight we flew uphill to Mirador Británico overlook.  Along the way finding odd flora and fauna that caught our eyes with the sounds of avalanches grew louder the higher we climbed. Often stopping to peek through the trees to see if we could find a view of the snow flow off a peak if we heard the thunder of the snow breaking.  Once at the overlook we were surrounded by clear skies letting the full 250 degree views of mountains visible. Snacking and relaxing for a few minutes before making the trek down. Unsure of how much time the added hike would take, our strides became longer and a slight jog to take advantage of a decline moved us along. Christmas dinner consisted of pizza and beer. A treat away from the dehydrated food we started to become accustomed to. This night is when we started to recognize the people who made the same itinerary as us. Chit chatting with folks from around the world as we drank beer next to the campground watering hole (sinks). 

Back to our tent we read for an hour or so, which became a pattern as the sun stayed up as we slowly passed out. Picking up Riverman: An American Odyssey at JFK was a perfect book while on an adventure. 

Day 4 & 5

Chorizo breakfast scramble was the best breakfast of what would become a longer day of hiking than what we expected. Setting off with slightly swollen feet, the air was dry as was our skin. The heat of the day grew and the wind subsided. Luckily this was the day with the most water crossings that gave us time to cool off. With a beat of added confidence with making it this far Alex took lead for our first crossing with only a rope to guide us across, and damn near fell into the water. My dumb ass was watching and taking photos, in hindsight I could’ve been more prepared in case something went further south. 

Moving through the brush the humidity grew whenever we were in shade before going into our next river crossing. This one required taking off our boots and using our sandals. My dogs loved the feeling and a quick shock to the system. With the clouds being held in the mountains, the sun was making a full attack. The sun shirt I was using for a “clean” sleeping shirt became my savior, however we could feel our hands burn even with constant sunscreen application. There was no reason to feel miserable as we found ourselves in a flower meadow with turquoise lakes, and waterfalls flowing off of snow capped mountains all around us. 

Reality set in once we found ourselves going the wrong way. We got off track and needed to go an additional 2 miles uphill as we missed a shortcut that stayed at elevation. As one of the park rangers told us as he bypassed us “oh this is the worst part of the trail”. Every step was no more than one foot in length from the last. We laughed at each other as we knew it couldn’t be this easy. Finally making it to the top a blast of cold air and dark clouds filled the sky adding adrenaline to the system to finish out the day’s hike. 

At 2:30 AM our first alarm went off, however we didn’t set out until 3:20 AM. Headlamps filled the trail to see the main event. Torres Del Paine in soft morning light. Even with minimal weight, it was the most difficult trail. Often turning into rock scrambles that were also a creek. Trying to not sweat with 40 degrees temperature was a challenge to be at the lookout before sunrise at ~5:00am. Abiding by the advice from our first hostal owner in Puerto Natales, we brought our double sleeping bag to wrap our bodies once we reached the top. A few clouds touch the peaks as the sun started to rise over the eastern sky, bouncing off the atmosphere and onto the rock faces. Slouched behind a rock, we ate granola as our hands froze being exposed to the air. 

Staying for 10-20 minutes we scurried down the slopes back to our tent to snooze for a few hours before making our last trek to the bus stop. Reaching the last bridge before entering the campground property line, I left my walking stick that now had a large peddle logged in a crack on the bottom with a smooth hand oiled finish on the top. My knees instantly did not like that decision. Laying under a tree while waiting for our shuttle, we napped and snacked on whatever we had left. 

While in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales

3 Days in Santiago beofore heading home